SERIES 6 - 8 x 26mins
Royal Jewellers S06 ep1 MIKOMOTO & OROGIADA
Meyer Hoffman, Mikimoto America's President
Mikimoto – The Originator of Cultured Pearls since 1893
Bestowed the appellation of ‘The Pearl King’, Kokichi Mikimoto dedicated his life to the pursuit of lustrous perfection.
Today Mikimoto is Japan’s consummate jeweller; selling the most luxurious, chic and glamorous pearls a woman can own. Their remarkable quality, contours, shapes and luminous lustre set them a world apart.
From Tokyo to London, Beijing to New York, Mikimoto’s beautiful designs continue to enrapture and delight.
Orogiada is a myth city that in a circle of snowy mountains and Orogiada has full of riches. It is claimed that modern diamond palace is in the capital of Kalapa. Kingdom which is kept a legend about horses have wind power.
Orogiada bracelets were found as a symbol of power and a special energy source in the archaeological excavations for tousand of years. Orogiada Concept’s jewelliers inspiration were formed with legend.
Each piece symbolizes that people shine like stars and a single stone stars. The Collection’s theme is love, understanding the context of the awareness of the body’s natural ability and energy of human.
Royal Jewellers S06 ep2 MESSIKA & MATSCHKE
Valerie Messika has created an incredible success story launching her own jewelry brand in Paris more than10 years ago. The house cultivates a creativity that rejects boredom. Designed by a woman for woman, the contemporary collections of Jewelry and Fine Jewelry are available in 50 countries in multi-brand stores or department stores such as Galeries Lafayette, Harrods, Neiman Marcus, Tsum... After the opening of its Parisian flagship store in 2014, the brand opened last year its own Parisian workshop dedicated to the exclusive pieces of Fine Jewelry.
Helga Matzke founded her business in 1972. She specializes in high-quality European table silver from the 17th through the 18th century, as well as "Kunstkammer"- objects of the 16th to the 18th century.
Royal Jewellers S06 ep3 SCHULLIN & OPALS
Herbert Schullin, Lukas Schullin
The family-run business was established in 1975 in Vienna, Austria by the eponymous Herbert Schullin, a goldsmith by education and gem-hunter by nature. The company’s main focus is hand-crafting and designing fine, contemporary jewelry with a distinguished touch.
Most pieces are unique, not only because rare gems cannot be replaced, but also because the firm’s designers and artisans have a strong passion for discovering new, previously unexplored designs.
Schullin has made a name for itself by combining the art of design with the art of craftsmanship. The founder, works closely with a handful of young designers from the Viennese University of Applied Arts to create contemporary and distinguished jewellery. The store is located in the middle of Kohlmarkt, an edifice erected by the well-known architect Hans Hollein. The company has won various design awards such as the Austrian State prize for fine jewellery, the Diamond award and an honourable mention at the Red Dot competition.
Jewels designed by a woman for a woman.
Chris Price OPALS
Lightning Ridge, famous as the world's major source of gem quality black opal, is situated approximately 770 kilometres north-west of Sydney and 50km due south of the Queensland border. Lightning Ridge's economy is based primarily on opal mining and secondarily on tourism.
Opal was first discovered at Lightning Ridge, by boundary rider Jack Murray in 1900, and has been mined since 1903, although it was not until the late 1950s with the introduction of mechanised mining methods that substantial production occurred.
Royal Jewellers S06 ep4 BELPERRON & HOLLOWAY
In 1965, as head of Sotheby’s New York jewelry division, Ward Landrigan noticed certain distinctive jewels rarely made it to the auction block. He later realized were the products of two jewelers. One was widely known and publicized: Duke Fulco di Verdura. The other a mystery. Her daring jewelry was unsigned – with only French hallmarks and the stamp of a renowned Parisian workshop. That Suzanne Belperron had remained unknown was no accident. Unlike the very gregarious duke, she was intensely private. Asked once why she never signed her jewelry she replied, “my style is my signature.”
Garry Holloway FGAA, DipDT, JAA Appraiser, left a career in geology and in 1976 established Melbourne diamond design award winning jeweller, Precious Metals. In 1984 he studied the Fire Scope while undertaking the Gemological Association of Australia’s Diamond Diploma. This led to a long and passionate interest in diamond cut.
After the publication of the Gemological Institute of America's ‘brilliance’ report in 1998 this passion became a crusade to improve the cut quality of all diamonds.
Royal Jewellers S06 ep5 MORELLI & SCHLAGER
The Fine Jewelry House of Paul Morelli was born from a culturally vibrant and artistic family tradition of theatre and handmade costumes. Founded in the early 20th century, in what was then the Philadelphia Theatre District, the Morellis became the premier company across the country for hand made, high quality and one-of-a-kind theatre garments.
In the late 70’s, the family’s heir apparent Paul Morelli, followed his passion for art, intricate detail, fine jewels and metallurgy and transformed the family operation into a fine jewelry business. Indeed, The Fine Jewelry House of Paul Morelli presently still operates in the same building where the Morelli family’s cultural influence dates back over a century.
Under Paul’s discerning eye for detail, pieces continue to be brought to life through collaborative expertise in handcraftmanship and modern technology by teams of craftsmen at the House of Morelli. The Morelli family maintains control over the production of every piece of jewelry, ensuring that each piece meets the family's exacting standards and only then is certified with the Paul Morelli name.
RAY SCHLAGER, JEWELLER: I wanted to be an artist and I stayed up late at night working on paintings. My teachers at the technical college told me that I wasn't all that talented and it was probably better that I didn't make it a career. So I went into something else that seemed halfway artistic and that is manufacturing jewellery.
Not being far from here when I started as a boy, I came here to buy lunches in the Royal Arcade, which happens to be the oldest arcade in Australia, strangely enough. And there was a wonderful mix of businesses in here including a doll shop and a Turkish baths. I was fortunate to buy in here some years ago and become part of the board that is undertaking the refurbishment of the Royal Arcade. At that time I had to pull out some of the ceilings that had been changed over that period of time and completely restore it through the help of Heritage to something like its original design.
Royal Jewellers S06 ep6 GELLNER & BAMPS
GELLNER: The name stands for family identity, professional jewelry craftsmanship, and creative design.
The focus is always on the pearls, with their magical shimmer, and colors to capture the imagination. Every single pearl embodies GELLNER's commitment to quality and individuality. Highlighting and interpreting the uniqueness of each pearl is the challenge faced in design. And all are working to achieve a common goal: to create a global passion for GELLNER – made in Germany.
Gellner jewelry is an alliance between the creative power of nature and the formative power of design. Close cooperation with internationally renowned jewelry designers, together with ideas from their own goldsmiths’ studio, are what give the Spirit of Pearls its uniqueness. Founded in 1967 by Tove and Heinz Gellner, the eponymous jewelry manufacturer is now led, in its second generation, by Jörg Gellner. “Gellner stands for ‚Made in Germany’, the fascination of selected fine pearls and the emotions associated with beautiful jewelry“, says Jörg Gellner.
A specialist in antique jewellery, Véronique Bamps has devoted herself for more than twenty-five years to European and American jewellery dating from the early 19th century to the 1950s. Based in Monaco, this internationally renowned expert reveals her discoveries, both signed and anonymous, which she selects for their style, originality, striking aesthetic qualities and techniques, at major international antiques fairs.
SERIES 5 10 x 26mins
Royal Jewellers S05 ep1 Sophia Vari &
Born in 1940 in Vari near Athens. Lives and works in Paris and Pietrasanta in Italy Figurative at her beginnings as sculptress in 1975, Sophia Vari gradually finds an intense plentitude in freeing herself from the subject in order to measure herself against Time and Space. She discovers with passion the structure of the planes, the monumental. Her forms becom tangled, gather themselves, soar skywards, kink, unfold in extension, merge in ease. As Greek, she refuses what is approximate and her sense of perfection leads her to a rigour in her studies and search (her numerous journeys incite her to). Though abstract, her sculptures keep from her original land a certain classicism.
Laurence Graff- A London "rock star" [Diamonds]. It has already been said that more important gem quality diamonds have passed through his hands than any other living dealer.
Sascha Moeri CARL BUCHERER
Carl F. Bucherer dates back to 1888, where an ambitious young man, a pioneer, opened up his first retail shop in Lucerne, selling watches and jewelry. He was so successful that he decided to start his own watch company, Bucherer Watches. They did well through the 20th century but were only sold in Bucherer stores. In 2001 the third generation owner of Bucherer decided to go international, changing the name of the brand from Bucherer to Carl F. Bucherer to honor his grandfather. It’s a brand with a huge tradition and history though it is quite new from an international market standpoint.
Alain Crevet - S.T Dupont
Crevet defines luxury as “great quality and durability,” S.T. Dupont’s product lineup is roughly divided into three categories: lighters, pens and other items, including bags, cuff links and belts. When Crevet began working for S.T. Dupont five years ago, the firm had lost money seven years in a row. To revive sales, Crevet made the decision to stop making clothing and focus on what the company is known for: lighters and pens.
Nannis [Laura Bicego]
Laura Bicego is the force behind the successful Italian jewelry line, Nanis, based out of Vicenza.
She is an energetic traveler, curious, open-minded, she loves to observe very meticulously the unexplored boundary of flavors travelling through the territories of the femminility from West to East. Always looking for glimpses and sensations, Laura captures new and interesting sounds, fragrances, nuances and surfaces and all comes into her creations. Geometric designs change shape in the twinkling of an eye, exciting games with the accessories introduce that idea of versatility and fun that only a woman knows. Jewels designed by a woman for a woman.
Aaron Shum [Coronet]
Ingeniously and elegantly Aaron Shum Jewelry has created a magnificent collection of Coronet Solitaire, which ensembles seven brilliants with an elevated center diamond set without prongs, creating "The Solitaire Effect".
A solitaire is beautiful on its own, but when the combination of the luster and brilliance of seven diamonds - Coronet Solitaire bedazzles! This exclusive design outshines the look and luminosity of a much larger solitaire stone. Coronet Solitaire is beautifully intricate and perfect for day-to-evening wear.
The House of Schoeffel was founded by Wilhelm Schoeffel in 1921 as a pearl trading business. Now in its fourth generation, the family-owned company has succeeded in attaining a position of international importance on the exclusive market of exquisite pearls and in elevating Schoeffel to the status of a highly acclaimed luxury brand.
Under the management of Till Schoeffel, the company’s success story, which combines entrepreneurial tradition with individual passion, is being resolutely pursued. It is passion that inspires women’s enthusiasm for the inimitable signature of Schoeffel all over the world: for pearls of spectacular beauty and impeccable quality as well as for breathtaking collections of pearl-inspired jewellery.
With enthusiastic people, exquisite creations and a competence that has spanned almost a whole century, Schoeffel accordingly proceeds to write the next chapter of its success story: Pure luxury. Since 1921.
Caran d'Ache was the pseudonym of the 19th century French satirist and political cartoonist Emmanuel Poiré (November 6, 1858 – February 26, 1909). "Caran d'Ache" comes from the Russian word karandash meaning pencil, which in turn comes from the Turkish words kara tas, meaning black stone. While his first work glorified the Napoleonic era, he went on to create "stories without words" and as a contributor to newspapers such as the Lundi du Figaro, he is sometimes hailed as one of the precursors of comic strips. The Swiss art products company Caran d'Ache is named after him.
Marcus Mohr [Victor Mayer]
Marcus Mohr - Faberge - Master Craftsman of the late Czar's favourite gift item-the imperial egg. Faberge actually was not considered a goldsmith himself. He was not making the things himself and there are only a few sketches that he actually drew himself. Different so-called work masters who were working more or less independently under his surveillance made the items. One was a specialist in enameling, one was specialised in silver, the other in jewellery.
Leo Placuzzi [SICIS]
The incredibly intricate art of micro mosaics is one that flourished in Sicis’ native Italy in Roman times and continued to be a popular method of decorating jewels for the gentry and royalty of Europe right through to the 19th century. Sicis president Maurizio Leo Placuzzi likens the use of micro mosaics to “a sort of eternal painting”.
But it is an art form that was nearly lost.
The magnificent "haute joaillerie" reminds one of those ornamental creations of old- steeped in legends from ancient times gone by: each stone a secret, each pearl a fairy teardrop. Fairy tales, woven around noble jewels, enchanted us with images of magical workshops in subterranean realms. In the world of human fantasy, dwarves crafted the most exquisitely precise creations for the King of the Mountain. But due to the ineffable fact that genuine jewellery consists of so much more than just gold and diamonds, they added something immeasurable to its preciousness, something from the transcendent world of human desires and ruminations. Into their creations they infuse these transient incarnations just as skilfully as their emeralds and rubies, thereby bestowing upon each one a unique form, weight and immortality.
Montegrappa is an elite Italian brand, mastered in manufacturing writing instruments. Celebrating its centenary in 2012, world renowned authors from Ernest Hemingway to Paulo Coelho penned their famous works using Montegrappa instruments.
The new "Asprey" on MountStreet under the auspices ofthe Asprey Family.
Because of my family history people know us they, have something unqiue and special they will call us and say, hey you know I've got something special I would like you to see it. So we will go and see it or they will bring it to us. O.k. we say we have, 1, 2, 3 clients who we really think this would just knock their socks off and they would have to have it. When you are talking about very special items you don't want them put in a shop window. I have taken three trunks full of goods to a client - you are asked to come and you go. When they see you is when they have the time. So yes you might have to wait for a week. Luckily with the advent of mobile phones you can actually wait slightly further away.
AB Jewels is characterized by very strong Italian “know-how” where proportions, volumes, multi-functionality and movements come together with color combinations to reveal the unique characteristics of Alessio Boschi’s designs. Merging together the world’s best possible hands and craftsmanship for a precious journey of unexpected detail; traveling thorough different countries, cultures and excellences worldwide; and where finally the soul of each jewel is the story unveiled to our clients.
Moira offers one of the largest signed collections of antique and vintage cufflinks and signet rings in London with many of their pieces becoming treasured parts in the collections of royal families. They also count Madonna, Adele, Rod Stewart, Goldie Hawn, J. K Rowling, Simon Le Bon, Sylvester Stallone, Danielle Steel, Dustin Hoffman, Daniel Craig and Sir Paul McCartney amongst their customers.
Eric Deardorf - Garrards
Garrard like Harrod's is a tangible inflection of Britain's Royal Family. At 112 Regent Street it is where they shop, albeit for consumer goods of a most particular order, and not always during accepted trading hours. Nonetheless it is an institution whose sheer existence represents both the endurance of the Royal generations and ratifies a connection between the 'commoner' and those whose bloodlines come only in the bluest of hues. For unlike Buckingham Palace, Garrard's doors do not forbid the passage of those whose family trees may not be made of such solid, centuries old oak, or whose caste is somewhat below Brahmin. Their tradition of service to their devoted international clientele is legend and nothing gives them more pleasure than to develop long-term relationships with their clients and grow with a family from birth to grandparental status.
Driven by passion and pure imagination, Marco Bicego — an Italian jewelry designer is defined by everyday luxury. With an ever-charming Italian accent and tenacious spirit, it is suiting that the designer hails from Veneto, near Venice: one of the country’s richest regions in regards to historical, natural, artistic, culture, musical, and culinary heritages. And in honoring this legacy, Bicego stresses one main point: his designs, while inspired by nature and emotion, are 100-percent handcrafted in Italy — capturing simple, unique, artesian qualities that are oftentimes overlooked in jewelry design.
Hancocks & Co is a retail jeweller in London, founded on January 1, 1849 by Charles F. Hancock, a former partner of Storr and Mortimer. The first shop was opened at a corner of Bruton Street and New Bond Street, in London. It has moved several times since then. Hancocks has become notable for the manufacture of the Victoria Cross medals and also for the various Royal Warrants that it holds.
Carrera y Carrera is one of the most internationally renowned Spanish jewelry companies. Headquartered in San Agustín del Guadalix, Madrid, its origins date back to 1885 when Saturio Esteban Carrera opened a small jewelry workshop in the Barrio de las Letras. During the 1970s, his great-grandsons Manuel Carrera and Juan José Carrera created the brand, after which the company has had several owners. Currently, its jewelry pieces and watches are exported to over 40 countries, and the company has subsidiaries in New York, Tokyo, Moscow, and UAE.
In 2000, Manuel Carrera received a Medal from the Russian Academy of Arts. Currently, the Spanish Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences grants a Carrera y Carrera ring for its Maja de los Goya award during its Goya Awards ceremony. Also the National Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences of Russia grants with the Golden Eagle Award (Russia) designed by Carrera y Carrera.
Thierry Stern - Patek Phillipe
Patek Philippe watches are the epitome of class worn by the chic elite and always made with the finest materials. Jack Welch, former CEO of General Electric GE -1.38% and one of the most influential businessman of the last century, is wearing a Patek Philippe watch on the cover of his book Winning. Patek Philippe watches do not try to speak too loudly to create a huge impression: instead the prices that the old pieces fetch at auctions and the veneration of the collectors do the talking.
The name, Qayten, is Sanskrit meaning “origin” and the abbreviation J.E.T., stands for “Jewellery Estetica Technology.” Maddalena Allegretti, marketing and sales manager, says this means its creations “fuse aesthetics, technical innovation and forward-thinking design while honoring the traditional techniques at the heart of jewelry making.”
|THE ROYAL JEWELLERS SERIES 4 [10x26min
Royal Jewellers S04 ep1 Luca Buccellatti &
& Luca [Milan]
to family history, the Buccellati's first
foray into the jewellery trade was in the
mid-eighteenth century when Contardo Buccellati
worked as a goldsmith in Milan. In 1903, Mario
Buccellati revived the family tradition, apprenticing
at Milan’s prestigious Beltrami & Beltrami.
In 1919, Buccellati took over the firm, changing
its name to Buccellati. International acclaim
came quickly. Exhibiting at Madrid’s 1920
Exposition, Mario Buccellati caught the public’s
attention when he hurled an expensive compact
out a window when a woman asked for a discount,
shouting, “I am not a tradesman!” The next
day, hundreds turned up to look at his booth,
curious to see the unknown jeweller’s pieces.
Everything sold. Buccellati was then invited
to exhibit his work at a solo show; Spanish
aristocrats came in droves, including the
royal family who became lifelong clients.
Royal Jewellers S04 ep2 Shamballa & Bonato
& Mads Kornerup[Copenhagen, Denmark]
Jewels have come up with a wonderfully imaginative
and thoughtful design, inspired by the Buddhist
prayer flags that dance in the wind above
the Himalayas. Shamaballa Jewels have proved
a roaring success and have found themselves
planted on the wrists of an assortment of
A-list celebrities since their launch in 2001.
Gywneth Paltrow, Jay-Z and the amazing Diane
Von Furstenburg are all big fans, and so am
I! Danish brothers, Mads and Mikkel Kornerup,
are responsible for giving us the irresistible
Shamballa bracelet and a taste of the champagne
lifestyle. However, the inspiration behind
the creation of the jewels is one of spirituality
and mythical concepts. Imagination fashioned
into design; always worthy of a few extra
noughts at the end of the price tag! Travelling
across the world at the young age of 19, Mads
Kornerup became fascinated with the brilliant
world of Buddhism. The jewels, the yoga, the
meditation became an inspiration that would
one day create the fine jewellery of Shamballa..
Milano 1960 has established its boardless
creativity, transmitting to its jewellery
all the most ancient Italian techniques becoming
an experimental environment. With its collections
the firm shows what we define “artitude”:a
new talent to transport in jewellery the vision,
the project and the manufacturing skills of
the most estimated and recognised designer,
inspired by contemporary art.
Royal Jewellers S04 ep3 Bayco, JewlsCPH
& Moris Hadjibay [New York]
for kings and queens is one way to explain
the business model of Bayco. This is, of course,
a metaphorical conception of Bayco's audience;
the modern idea of royalty has grown to include
everyone who hungers luxury and who understands
the intricate labor and savoir-faire that
goes into every Bayco piece. The sophistication
once enjoyed only by half a dozen people in
each country has spread to a more generalized—but
still rarefied—luxury-loving elite. After
Amir moved to Italy in 1957, he used his considerable
gemstone experience and contacts in jewel
capitals around the world to take advantage
of Italy’s postwar taste for gems and position
as a trade hub. A little over twenty-five
years later, Amir’s sons Moris and Giacomo
teamed up in New York, working together as
co-CEOs at Bayco. It didn’t take long for
the two brothers to find success; they had
years of individual and collective experience,
gorgeous stones in their collection, and an
exceptionally jewel-centric family history.
JEWLSCPH stands Mai Manniche - she realized
her dream and started JEWLSCPH in 2005. Drawn
by beautiful gemstones and fascinating colours,
Mai started an exciting jewellery adventure
- focusing on the making of precious designer
jewellery. Since the very beginning Mai has
created a great variety of designer jewellery
from gold- and diamondjewellery to leatherbracelets
and silver jewellery. From the beginning the
goal was cear - JEWLSCPH had to be a jewellery
company with jewellery for (almost) any taste
- and therefore all the collections consist
of earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings
in a great variety of designs and styles.
Common denominator for all the jewels is,
that their are exclusively made in precious
materials and precious stones - due to the
fact that the quality is crucial for the beauty
and durability of each jewellery. Jewellery
stresses the style and personality of each
individual woman. Therefore it's very important
that every woman can find that piece of jewellery
and the exact colour that suits her style
and maintain their beauty for a long time.
I'm very focused on, that I make jewellery
for all women - not only jewellery in a particular
trend or for one kind of woman." says Mai
Manniche about her passion for designing jewellery.
Royal Jewellers S04 ep4 Alisa Moussaieff &
Jewellers Ltd. has two London stores and a
shop at the Grand Hotel Kempinski Geneve in
Switzerland. Most customers desire gems
worth more than £1 million (US$1.6 million).
Moussaieff's clients have included government
figures such as Imelda Marcos and Princess
Ashraf and Princess Shams of Iran, and celebrities
Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor, Stavros
Niarchos, Zsa Zsa Gabor, Joan Collins, Bob
Cummings, Shirley MacLaine, George Raft, Peter
Sellers, and Frank Sinatra.
Moussaieff owns rare stones worth millions
of dollars, such as the Moussaieff Blue Diamond,
a flawless 6.04 carat stone that Alisa purchased
at a 2007 Sotheby's auction in Hong Kong for
$7.98 million, setting a world record in price
per carat, with a final bid of $1.32 million
per carat. The Moussaieff Red Diamond,
a trilliant cut, 5.11 carat red diamond purchased
in 2001 or 2002, is the world's largest
known red diamond.
17 years old Otto Jakob began to teach himself
to make jewelry. Inspired by the magic and
artistic power of Etruscan, Celtic and Hellenic
masterpieces, he learned their complex techniques
using treatises by Pliny and Cellini. Between
1977 and 1980 he studied painting with Georg
Baselitz. Since 1980 he has devoted himself
exclusively to the creation of jewelry. The
earliest collectors of his work were important
artists and art dealers. The dealer Hans Neuendorf
acquired the majority of his early pieces
created between 1981 and 1986. Otto Jakob
has collectors in Europe and the United States.
He exhibits at the Daniel Blau Gallery in
Munich, Colnaghi in London and at TEFAF in
Royal Jewellers S04 ep5 Jorg Heinz, Chatila,
Heinz [Pforzheim GERMANY]
as the “Atelier for Pearl Jewelry” in Pforzheim
in 1968, the Jörg Heinz Manufactory currently
numbers among the most modern and most innovative
of its kind in Europe. The modern jewelry
clasps, which the firm’s founder Jörg Heinz
invented and developed starting in 1974, are
the basis for this family business’s global
renown and its more than four decades of success.
Products by Jörg Heinz are individualistic
adornments of the highest quality. Today the
focus of the business’s efforts has shifted
from the function of the Jörg Heinz clasp
to the design of various pieces and lines
of jewelry. Jörg Heinz created the first variable
jewelry system: its technical advantages are
taken for granted today and its diverse designs
are appreciated by people who love and wear
Nicolas Chatila [London]
in the Lebanon more than a century and a half
ago, Chatila is rare among jewellery houses
in that the name over its doors is still the
name of the family that owns and runs it.
George Chatila began the business as a silversmith
in 1860, whereupon his probity and skill made
it flourish. It is the third and fourth generations
of the family – Nicholas Chatila and his three
sons, Marwan, Edward and Carlos – who now
continue in the founder’s footsteps. Nearly
fifty years have passed since the firm relocated
to Switzerland. The move brought with it an
abundance of fresh ideas and new designs that
have proven extremely popular with the Chatila
clientele. Today, Chatila’s flagship showroom
in Geneva, in the Rue du Rhône, is a trusted
venue for the discerning client who seeks
a rare item of nonpareil magnificence.
Royal Jewellers S04 ep6 Delaneau, Roberto
Gouten & Brigitte Morina [Geneva]
1949, DeLaneau was founded in Biel by the
couple Rolf and Yolanda Tschudin. Our creations
were as visionary as their two founders. We
became renown for creating exceptional jewellery
timepieces for private clients and elite collectors.
Prestigious jewellers of Geneva and Place
Vendôme, Paris, counted on our outstanding
craftsmanship. Our distinctive, colourful
and exclusive creations simply stood out in
the world of jewellery watchmaking. During
the 1970s, DeLaneau took the decision to reach
for the sky and ignore the watchmaking conventions
of its day. The use of rare metals and precious
gems became a goal in itself. Searching for
new modes of expression, DeLaneau created
eclectic, colourful and mesmerizing creations.
Engaging the world’s expert gem setters and
goldsmiths earned DeLaneau the title “The
jeweller of watches”. Outstanding craftsmanship
was combined with priceless materials to form
highly exclusive jewellery designs.
Demeglio [Torino ITALY]
luxury: authentic value. Pure pleasure. Without
ostentation. A passion for technique; an instinct
for artistic craftsmanship. Eclectic creativity:
the young designer Roberto Demeglio. Strong
values: authenticity, understated elegance,
outstanding creativity. A true balance of
design flair, technical experimentation, and
craft tradition .
Royal Jewellers S04 ep7 Jacob & Co, Visconti
Arabo [New York]
The Jeweler Arabo is a Bukharian immigrant
from Uzbekistan who began selling his gems
in Manhattan's Diamond District in 1986. His
first celeb client was R&B singer Faith Evans,
who found his shop, fell in love with the
jewels, put down a deposit on a ring and started
to spread the word to her famous pals. His
client list includes Jessica Simpson, Nick
Lachey, Sean "P. Diddy" Combs, Mary J. Blige,
Janet Jackson, Christy Turlington, Beyoncé
and David Beckham.Arabo’s Jacob & Co. timepieces
were among the lots selling at the highest
prices at Antiquorum Geneva Auction in April
of 2010. His Crystal Tourbillon was the top
selling lot at $477,120 USD, and the firm’s
titanium Napoleon Quadra was the third highest
selling lot at $354,432 USD. In October, 2008
at the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite
auction held in Hong Kong, a spectacular Jacob
& Co. cushion-shaped diamond ring was the
item that sold at the highest price; $5.78
million. At the same auction, a yellow gold
and diamond necklace and earring set from
Jacob & Co. was the fourth highest priced
item (selling at $960,624).
Del Vecchio [Firenze]
name Visconti has been for the past twenty
years a synonym for writing instruments of
extraordinary beauty, historically and technologically
studied. The fountain pens, rollers and ballpoint
pens by Visconti make up a wide range of high
quality instruments with a strong identification.
It really seems that Renaissance in Florence
is still at its liveliest. Located in a 15th
century villa, Visconti keeps being stirred
by intellectual flurry, the study of ancient
models and of modern techniques in a constant
dialogue and exchange of innovative ideas.
This Florentine company established in 1988
is headed by Dante Del Vecchio, deus ex machina
of the creative dynamism pervading Visconti
creations. Led by his passion for vintage
pens, he has been constantly in a quest for
new expressions in the art of writing.
Royal Jewellers S04 ep8 Antonini , Art Jewels
1919 Italian jeweler ANTONINI has been making
jewelry for elegant, sophisticated women who
want a product of great quality and tradition.
ANTONINI jewelry is designed and made exclusively
in Italy, and is distinguished by perfect
details and innovative design, making these
pieces unique. ANTONINI highly stylized collections
in 18 kt gold, diamond pavè and colored stones
represent the top of Italian creativity and
Antiques was established in 1982 by Didier
Haspeslagh, who specializes in oeuvre jewelry
that date from the 1940s to 1980s. In 2006,
the business became a family affair, when
Didier was joined by Martine Newby Haspeslagh.
In 2011, it became a limited company with
the opening of a new gallery at its current
location at 66b Kensington Church Street,
West London. In this gallery, you can find
the masterpieces created by leading 20th century
designers and architects from the UK, Europe
and the USA. The store currently features
more than 200 pieces of the finest, exclusive
jewels. It is also a regular participant at
renowned exhibitions, such as Museum of Art
and Design (MAD) in New York, Pavilion of
Art & Design, London (PAD), and Masterpiece,
Royal Jewellers S04 ep9 Butani, Giorgo Visconti,
& Manoj Butani [Hong Kong]
is an internationally renowned designer of
haute couture jewellery. Their unique and
exclusive jewels are much sought after by
discerning clients. The company has built
a reputation for creating personalized handcrafted
jewellery for royal families, heads of state
and private clients. In addition to their
own boutiques they can be found in distinguished
retail stores around the world. As
a young man in 1969, Mr. Papu Butani arrived
in Hong Kong from Mumbai. He faced tough times
but his passion for hard work brought him
success. Mr. Butani gradually defined his
vocation to create fine jewellery. Under his
vision and leadership, Butani Jewellery has
since grown to an organization employing over
a hundred specialist individuals worldwide.
Today, Mr. Butani has been joined by his two
sons Manoj and Mukesh. Their presence has
given additional depth, imagination and energy
to the thriving and ever-growing business.
Visconti is an Italian jewelry company founded
by its namesake Giorgio Visconti. Visconti
started in the industry with only a small
goldsmith shop which then grew to become a
brand world renowned for its fabulously chic
jewelry. The brand carries thirteen unique
collections including; Philosophy, Destiny,
Eclipse, Sweet, Joy, Eternity, Freedom, Cube,
Cult, Wave, Promise, Love and Enigma. All
of these collections share pure Italian style,
superior craftsmanship and innovative designs.
Another special thing about these collections
is they all feature gemstones. Visconti prides
himself on providing the most opulently gorgeous
jewelry in the business, and it is fitting
that every piece would feature shining gemstones.
Jewellery is a company that is well known
and trusted throughout the Middle East as
a producer of exclusive high-quality diamond
jewellery. The company founded by the current
CEO,Abdul Karim Mahallati, at the young age
of 16. He found a passion for diamond and
gold jewellery and created a jewellery company
renowned globally for the flawless craftsmanship
and the impeccable beauty of its creations.
he took his infatuation of rare gems and translated
it into the magnificent and unique pieces
that can only be found in Mahallati Jewellery
products today. With products ranging from
extravagant and opulent designs using exceptional
diamonds and precious stones down to effortless
and stylish jewellery designed for every day
wear, Mahallati Jewellery collections are
extensive and unsurpressed. As a two generation
family business, family values are the pillars
in the running of day-to-day operations, ensuring
trust, honesty and assertion of superiority
to each and every customer."When it comes
to buying jewellery, customers need to feel
that they trust us in helping them make the
right choice and here at Mahallati Jewellery
we make sure that they can,"says Mehran Mahallati..
Royal Jewellers S04 ep10 Leo Pizzo, Aardewerk
Leo Pizzo was launched in 1971 and is one
of the most highly valued jewellery brands
in the world. The philosophy of the company
is to carry out the entire creation of its
jewellery in the heart of Valenza, Italy.
The Leo Pizzo 'Anchor' collection represents
balance and continuity, while the 'Hearts'
collection embodies passion and the 'Flowers'
collection is joyful and creative. The latest
Leo Pizzo collections are 'MiHaiPreso' and
Aardewerk and his sister Esther are the directors
of A. Aardewerk Antiquair Juwelier. The company
specializes in superb quality antique Dutch
silver dating from the sixteenth century onwards
and in fine antique and period jewellery.
In November 1970 Abraham Aardewerk and his
wife Magdie opened the current showrooms in
Jan van Nassaustraat in The Hague. Emiel and
Esther, who were raised with antiques, joined
their father in the business in 1995.They
are the fourth generation of antiques experts
in the family
Virani KARP [Hong Kong]
over four decades of experience and expertise
in the diamond trade, KARP caters to international
luxury brands. Apart from being a DTC Sightholder,
the group is recognised as an "institution"
in the industry, using the most technologically
advanced manufacturing systems in the business.
KARP manufactures a huge array of products,
from 0.005-carat goods to stones weighing
10 carats and above. It excels in the production
of certified fine makes, fancy cut goods and
fancy coloured diamonds. The manufacturer
is one of the few companies that has achieved
up to 5-micron precision in diamond manufacturing.
THE ROYAL JEWELLERS SERIES 3 [10x26min
Royal Jewellers S03 ep1 De Grisogono, Deborah
Gruosi,Born in 1952, Gruosi spent his childhood
in Florence with his mother. Driven by the necessity
to work but also by his interest in art, he left
school at 18 and trained to become a sales assistant
with a renowned Florentine jeweler. Seven years
later, Gruosi, then still a consultant to the
firm, oversaw the opening its store in London
and became a director four years later. He was
only 30 when the Alizera family, Harry Winston's
official agent, noticed him and proposed that
he become its representative in Saudi Arabia.
The young entrepreneur did not hesitate to take
up this new challenge. After three years in that
country, he returned to Europe where he was immediately
contacted by the Bulgari company. Gianni Bulgari,
a mythical name in the world of jewellery, created
a new post for him. He hired him in Bulgari Precious
Trading and accorded him his complete trust. Fawaz
thus became the first person in the group to have
access to all the new designer jewellery collections
which he would be responsible for selling worldwide,
with the exception of the Bulgari boutiques of
which at that time there were only eight! A fantastic
field of opportunity thus opened up before Fawaz,
which would also enable him to fill up his address
book through numerous contacts. This provided
a unique experience, but destiny would for the
first time take a new turn. Gianni Bulgari left
the family company. Having lost his role model,
Fawaz then decided to start out on his own. That
was in 1993. Without any specific strategy in
mind, he founded de GRISOGONO and very quickly
his original and extraordinary creativity ensured
that each jewel he fashioned immediately aroused
passions. This almost immediate success would
give him strength and self-confidence. In 1996,
driven by the constant need to be ahead of trends,
Gruosi created a black diamond collection. In
2000, he presented his first watch, Instrumento
N°Uno. De Grisogono now has 17 original and exclusive
gallery is situated on the Mediterranean coast
between Barcelona and Valencia. We deal in Romanesque,
Gothic and Renaissance art, specially jewellery
and works in wrought iron of these periods.
Royal Jewellers S03 ep2 Faberge, Faraone,
story of Fabergé is inextricably linked to the
lives, loves and tragedy of the last Romanov Tsar
Nicholas II and his Empress Alexandra, and to
the Russian Revolution that changed the course
of world history. Of Huguenot origin, with a febrile
imagination, protean talent and entrepreneurial
instincts, Peter Carl Fabergé became jeweller
and goldsmith to the great Russian Imperial Court,
creating exquisite jewels and objects, including
the legendary series of lavish and ingenious Imperial
Easter Eggs. His worldwide reputation attracted
royalty, nobility, tycoons, industrialists and
the artistic intelligentsia of Paris, Moscow,
St Petersburg and London. In 1917, the Russian
Revolution brought a violent end not only to the
Romanov dynasty but also to the House of Fabergé.
The Bolsheviks seized the Fabergé workshops and
their treasures, all production was closed down
and Peter Carl Fabergé and his family fled from
Russia. In a legal settlement in 1951, the Fabergé
family lost the right to produce and market designs
under the Fabergé name. Yet, through decades of
the 20th century, the noble Fabergé name, separated
from the family despite their attempts to honour
and perpetuate their legacy, showed an extraordinary
resilience. Throughout, the legend has retained
its mystique, charisma and awe-inspiring romance,
along with a certain enigma tied to the mystery
of the whereabouts of many iconic Fabergé works
of art. History came full circle in October 2007
when Fabergé, under new ownership and direction,
announced the reunification of the Fabergé name
with the Fabergé family. This opened a new chapter
in the intriguing story of Fabergé, and set the
stage for a total revitalisation of the Fabergé
name and philosophy, in tune with its original
values, aesthetics and spirit. Fabergé was re-launched
on the 9th September, 2009, with three Les Fabuleuses
de Fabergé High Jewellery Collections - Les Fleurs,
Les Fables and Les Fauves de Fabergé. Today, with
Katharina Flohr as Creative and Managing Director,
and her in-house creative team, Fabergé is forging
a fresh yet strong identity. Paying homage to
Peter Carl Fabergé’s genius as a visionary artist-jeweller,
and benefiting from the expertise and guidance
of Tatiana and Sarah Fabergé, his great-grand-daughters,
contemporary Fabergé collections are imbued with
poetry, artistry and refined ideals of beauty
made possible by unrivalled craftsmanship, innovation
and ingenuity, all underlined with a strong emotional
engagement. Distinguished by Fabergé’s dedication
to excellence and pursuit of perfection, the jewels
are both linked to Fabergé’s world, yet of the
moment and relevant today, demonstrating the modernity
that Peter Carl Fabergé was always able to bring
to his own eclectic cultural and stylistic references.
excellence and royalty are the key words of Faraone
Jewelry, a company born from the ashes of the
Second World War, in 1945 in Via Montenapoleone
in Milan. Keeper of an Italian tradition that
evokes the richness of fine jewelry, Raffaele
Faraone's founder, has established itself on the
international scene, offering to its customers
as the "family jeweler": the only one able to
keep secrets and values, to interpret dreams and
create precious works of art to measure. The distinctive
features of the house Faraone, were initially
very close to the Milanese style of the 60s, which
boasted functional elegance, never sought a preciousness
opulent and ostentatious. Also in those days Pharaoh
establishes a deep relation with the family Settepassi,
Florentine jewelers for four hundred years, thus
increasing the know-how of a goldsmith tradition
old centuries. After his untimely death was in
fact one of a family Settepassi member, Guido,
to take the reins of the house Faraone finally
throwing in the international arena adorning the
aristocracy and the stars with sumptuous jewels
hundred percent Italian.
Royal Jewellers S03 ep3 Koechert, A La Vielle
foundation of Köchert jewellers goes back to the
year 1814. Already in 1831, the company was awarded
the title "Purveyors to the Imperial and Royal
Court", and in 1868 Alexander Emanuel Köchert
was appointed as Chamber Jeweller. As the personal
jeweller of the emperor, he thus become the royal
treasurer. Since then, it has been part of the
Köchert tradition that the house at Neuer Markt
is a meeting point for well-known artists who
create unique gems together with the master goldsmiths
of the firm's own workshops. Today, Christoph,
Wolfgang and Florian Köchert continue this tradition.
The headquarters of A. E. Köchert Jewellers have
been at Neuer Markt 15 since 1873; in December
2005, another shop was opened at the noble Altenmarkt
15 in Salzburg.
La Vieille Russie Mark
La Vieille Russie specialises in European and
American antique jewellery , gold snuffboxes,
and objets de vertu. Goldsmith and jeweller Carl
Fabergé was a client, and today we are recognized
as international experts on his works. A La Vieille
Russie also deals in Russian decorative arts,
including silver, porcelain and enamel, as well
as Russian paintings and icons. We maintain a
strong exhibition schedule, including the seminal
500-piece loan exhibition of Fabergé in 1983.
A La Vieille Russie was founded in Kiev, moved
to Paris at the time of the Russian Revolution,
and ultimately to New York.
Royal Jewellers S03 ep4 Sevan Bicakci, Charles
Armenian descent, Sevan Bicakci was born in 1965
in the Fatih district of Istanbul, Turkey. He
is known as the King of Rings. At the age of 12,
his father, who was a theater actor, placed Sevan
under the apprenticeship of Hovsep Catak in the
Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. After serving 4 years
of apprenticeship, his master passed away. However,
he had learned a great deal about jewellery design
and craftsmanship. He then opened a workshop in
order to serve bigger manufacturers as a freelance
jewel designer. He worked on his first collection
for a year before unveiling it in the global market
in 2002. His jewelry designs are that of Byzantine
and Ottoman styles. Some of Sevan's famous clientele
include Catherine Zeta-Jones, Elizabeth Hurley,
Celine Dion, Liv Tyler, Mariah Carey, Brooke Shields,
Angie Harmon, Kim Raver, Halle Berry, Mary Kate
and Ashley Olsen, Michelle Monaghan, and Tory
OUDIN - Paris
Charles Oudin is a rare character in the world
of timepieces. With a long history, the brand
today is the true definition of a boutique watch
maker. Unassuming, their client list and qualities
are nonetheless very impressive. Today they specialise
in tasteful jewellery watches made entirely in
Paris. You could say that Charles Oudin is more
“joaillerie” than “horlogerie”. We had an opportunity
to meet with the brand at their Place Vendôme
office. Unavailable to the public, the showroom
is a private meeting space for the brand’s international
client base. Perched in cabinets are the historic
clocks and other creations made by Charles Oudin
himself. The namesake of the brand was a talented
watch maker from the early 19th century who began
his career in 1797. Oudin was a student of Abraham-Louis
Breguet, who was arguably the most talented and
famous historic watch maker of his (and our) time.
Anyone who spent time as an apprentice to Breguet
quickly gained a reputation themselves.
Royal Jewellers S03 ep5 Van der Bauwede, Florian
Der Bauwede [Geneva]
Maxence Van Der Bauwede
– Birth of a brand In 1890, Alexis Van Der Bauwede
(1873-1950) from Bruges created the brand of the
same name. At the time, this itinerant watch and
jewellery maker, specialised in handling clocks
and chimes, crisscrossed Flanders at the wheel
of his Bugatti. From one town to the next, he
installed and repaired the complex movements of
cathedral and city hall clocks, which sometimes
weighed up to 27 tons. 1920 – ‘Cubes Diamants’
Van Der Bauwede’s first jewellery set.Despite
being a watchmaker by trade, Alexis was highly
versatile. He visited individuals door to door
and sold his jewellery creations crafted in honour
of big occasions. In 1920, he created his first
jewellery set, called the “Cubes Diamants” (Diamond
Cubes), for a Russian countess and lover of exceptional
objects. This was the beginning of a long story…
1930 – From Alexis to Michel Van Der Bauwede At
the age of 24, Alexis’ son, Michel Van Der Bauwede
(1906-1965) became the first successor to take
on what was subsequently to become a tradition.
He was fascinated by miniaturisation and quite
naturally focused on pocket watches. Parallel
to this, he developed the jewellery side of the
business in which he subsequently specialised.
1949 - Van Der Bauwede opens in Lille After demonstrating
his talents across Flanders, Michel Van Der Bauwede
moved to Lille and opened the first Van Der Bauwede
boutique at 34, Rue Esquermoise. Recently renovated
by the “Monuments Historiques” (Historical Monuments),
this magnificent Flemish house dating back to
the 18th century provided a setting for the jewellery
it housed in its walls and display windows. The
brand remained there for a good 50 years. 1965
- From Michel to Pierre Van Der Bauwede There
was no indication that Pierre Van Der Bauwede
(1933-2010) would become an even more famous jeweller
than his father and grandfather. Drawn to medicine,
he joined the family business when Michel passed
away. Thanks to his skill in the realm of science
and physics in particular, Pierre Van Der Bauwede
specialised in precious stones and diamonds which
earned the brand considerable international renown.
His second field of expertise as “State Gemmology
Expert” led to him invent a new cut of diamond
christened the “VDB Diamond Cut”. Equally gifted
in the realm of the literary, to commemorate the
brand’s centenary, he published a collection of
poems in 1990 shortly before handing over to his
son, Maxence. Excerpt: “The diamond under its
web dreams of dazzling skies; looking both at
the star and at its internal star”. 1984 - From
Pierre to Maxence Van Der Bauwede
as a boy, Berlin-born Florian Wagner became acquainted
with the world of colours and art through his
father, owner of the famous “Studio for
Mosaic and Glass-art August Wagner”. Later,
his mother Prof. Jucunda Wagner indroduces him
to the craft of enamelling and goldsmithing and
in 1969 Florian Wagner obtains his Journeyman‘s
certificate in Berlin. He then leaves Europe and
heads for Johannesburg South Africa where he lives
and works until 1973. It is there, where he becomes
so captivated by the prevalence and variety of
minerals and gemstones that to this day, his work
is still influenced by the experience. In 1973
he arrives in Vienna and enrols at the Academy
of applied Art where he takes up miniature sculpturing
and medal-art, he then goes on and opens the Gallery
“Mana” which until 1989 remains one
of Vienna’s important showcases of contemporary
art. The discourse with modern art not only inspires
Florian Wagner’s jewellery designs but also
the shape of utensils made in Silver, like the
“Teapot for two”(Silvertriennale 1991/92)
and finally results in him taking part in the
Expo “Diagonal-Austrian Design“ in
1992. Several freely concepted liturgical utensils
come about and in 1997, exposure to the rather
scant yet aestheticly very expressive Japanese
art gives rise to a series of “exotic”
pieces of jewellery. The unique use of precious
metals and stones in addition to first class workmanship
is topic number one at Florian Wagner’s
– despite that we never loose sight of the
ultimate goal: the wearability of a piece of jewellery
and to be in tune with the person who wears it.
It is the artist’s need to underline the
inner and exterior image of the client. Music
provides the inspiration Florian Wagner mostly
Royal Jewellers S03 ep6 Fulvio-Maria Scavia, Bernadette
Gelder Indian Jewels
Bernadette Van Gelder
prime specialisation of Van Gelder is traditional
Indian jewellery. The collection consists of jewellery
set with a large variety of fine gems, pearls
and decorated with different enamel techniques.
A second field well represented by Van Gelder
are South Sea Baroque Pearls of exceptional size
and quality. The pearls are drilled at our own
workshop where they are fitted at the client´s
The origins of Fulvio Maria Scavia’s success as a
multi award-winning designer-jeweller and goldsmith
reach back to the small goldsmith’s workshop established
by Domenico Scavia in Milan in 1923. Over the
years, this resolutely Italian name has risen
to a pre-eminent position in the international
world of fine jewellery. Through his own long
and illustrious career, Fulvio Scavia has combined
aesthetic research with ancient jewellery crafts
and nature’s most precious resources. He works
in his Milan atelier, alongside a team of goldsmiths,
creating jewels to stand the test of time and
enrich the mystique of the feminine ideal he considers
his muse. “Gold is my favourite raw material,
perfect for moulding all jewellery creations.
The art of the goldsmith reached across centuries,
embossing and shaping creativity and intelligence,
so that each jewel possesses a rich soul, and
becomes a witness to a great Italian tradition.
The great charm of the hand-made jewel lies in
the fact that it has passed through the hands
of someone who has left his mark on his work;
each moment of creation is unique.”
Royal Jewellers S03 ep7 RCM, Epoque Antiques,
Italy] Lorenzo Ricciri
was founded in 1969 by three master goldsmiths:
Lorenzo ricci, Adriano Corbellini and Guerino
Manfrinati. rCM is headquartered in the traditional
Goldsmith region of Valenza, italy, where tradition
in this art dates back to 1800. rCM has established
itself as a leader in the international jewellery
market for its creative design and unique precious
stones. Lorenzo Ricci prides himself on being
able to create classic designs with a modern appeal.
A design easily recognizable; a design that will
endure time. in 2002 the city of Valenza bestowed
upon rCM the award “ambassador of quality”.
Patricia De Wit
company was founded in 1958 by Mrs. Nicole Verschuere
and is today one of the leading companies dealing
in high quality antique and period jewellery.
The company specialises in the very finest jewellery
from the 19th and 20th century, with a predilection
for Art Nouveau, Garland Style and Art Deco. The
collection shows the work of many famous jewellers,
such as Cartier, René Lalique, Van Cleef & Arpels,
Boucheron, Mauboussin, Fabergé, Tiffany.
3 The Royal Jewellers S03 ep8 Gavello, Maierhofer
aesthetics, functionality, glamour; a few key
words that sum-up Rinaldo Gavello's jewellery
creations and his own style. His designs are examples
of timeless quality, shaped by the rigorous lines
of his rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces.
Anatomic jewellery, comfortable and ergonomic
that reflects construction, volume and proportion
between gem, metal and human form.
1967 I was employed by Andrew Grima in London
as a goldsmith and ended up staying in England
for three years. In 1969 I was put in charge of
the ornamental watch collection for Omega at Andrew
Grima. Subsequently, I started to get interested
in working with contemporary jewellery. I was
mainly influenced by Stella Liechtenstein, Jim
Dine and Trova, but also by the many colours of
London, which contrasted with the greyness of
daily life in Vienna.In 1975 I became the owner,
with my wife, Sandra, of an old farmhouse in the
southern Waldviertel, a wooded area in the country,
north of Vienna. Working in the country means
an opportunity to work in harmony, focusing on
what one has experienced and expressing it in
one’s own particular way. I try to show
jewellery not only in small, but also in larger
dimensions, to present the form more clearly.
The relationship between an item of jewellery
and the wearer is intense, which means that it
is worn both consciously and with emotion at the
right moment. I would like to make the following
comments regarding my own work: just as letters
are symbols which are joined together to form
sounds and finally, in their entirety, form language
which is communicated to others, I interpret my
jewellery objects as signs of an inner order which
I, myself, have created and which I attempt to
impart to others as well.
Royal Jewellers S03 ep9 Jewellery Theatre, Andreas
Theatre was established in Moscow in 1998. Everything
started from an unexposed jewelry studio and after
eleven years the company has indeed turned into
an internationally rated trademark. However, to
achieve this you will need a team of like-minded
persons – partners and employees, who would live
the life of your brand 25 hours day and night.
I was lucky since I always had such people around.
Currently, our jewelry house has two brands. One
of them, Jewelry Theatre, represents 12 permanent
jewelry collections, while the other, Maxim Voznesensky,
is a sort of emperor lodge of our “theatre” and
offers exclusive pieces in single copies only.
eberharter creates authentic jewelry for real
individualists andreas eberharter, goldsmith and
sculptor, since 1992 active as a freelance artist
in vienna, austria. numerous individual and group
exhibits both in austria and abroad. founded the
AND_i label in 2001. collections presented at
fashion shows internationally in tokyo, sao paolo,
paris, bangkok and new york. andreas eberharter’s
approach to jewelry is that of a sculptor who
seeks free access to expressions of artistic form.
he uses new and unusual materials such as aluminum
and acrylic glass, but also swarovski crystals
and pearls or cubic zirconia. eberharter’s works
are eye-catching, intense, clear and uncompromising
Royal Jewellers S03 ep10 Hemmerle, Padua School
today's world where craftsmanship, individuality
and authenticity are increasingly rare, Hemmerle
is one of the last pillars protecting a unique
family heritage of superior craftsmanship. The
tradition was established in the 19th Century
when the brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle were
appointed by the Bavarian Court as purveyors of
Medals and ornaments. In 1904 Hemmerle opened
its doors on the Maximilian Strasse offering traditional
designed jewellery of exceptional quality. 1971
bore witness to the re-invention of the Hemmerle
brand under the direction of Joseph's grandson
Stefan, a visionary with a sculpture's eye. Today
the house remains a fourth generation family business
with Stefan at the helm his wife, Sylveli, his
son Christian and daughter-in-law Yasmin by his
side. The entire family is involved with each
intricate design and is immersed in every detail
to give a unique stamp of personality to every
piece that leaves the Hemmerle atelier.
e la Scuola dell'oro (Italian Contemporary Jewellery.
Padua and its Jewellery School)
Vita was born in Italy in 1956. She studied at
the Pietro Selvatico Art Institute of Padua where
she graduated in 1975, where she later also taught
between 1989-1996. She has taken part in numerous
exhibitions worldwide and her works are exhibited
on a permanent basis in the Museo d'Arti Applicate,
Musei Civici di Padova. The choice of dedicating
herself to contemporary jewellery stemmed from
the influence received from other artists in Padua
such as Francesco Pavan, Giampaolo Babetto, Piergiuliano
Reveane. Her research stems from the study of
pure geometrical forms and from the passion for
precious stones. Her works present movement, reflect
light and different colour tones created by the
moving stones in her pieces. Alberta is the ambassador
for Peace Marker Italy, and one of 198 collaborating
artists working together to shape the global peace
offering known as the Worldwide Peace Marker Project.
She is widely known for her unique and innovative
studio jewellery. Her approach to her art is sculptural
with a meticulous penchant for symmetries of elegant
and precise intersections of geometry and meaning.
Alberta liberates raw gems to yield their beauty
while masterfully shielding the gems private mysteries
from the possessor of the work. She gives us a
new way to experience wearable art. Alberta extends
the utility of a ring or a necklace into a narrative
of respect for the natural beauty of the earth
and an understanding of the elegant way by which
we, and everything else, are ultimately connected
||THE ROYAL JEWELLERS SERIES 2
Royal Jewellers S02 ep1 Van Cleef & Arpels,
Ilias Lalaounis Museum,
CLEEF & ARPELS Stanislas
story begins as most fairy tales end with a heaven
sent wedding between Estelle Arpels and Alfred
Van Cleef. Estelle is the daughter of a precious
stone wholesaler and the sister of expert gemmologists.
Alfred is the son of a diamond merchant from Amsterdam.
The year is 1896, the die is cast, their adventure
will be enriched over the year by fidelity, feminity,
glamour and excellence. Today, the spirit of the
family is alive: creativity and craftsmanship
are pillars of the Van Cleef & Arpels soul
expressed through the technical mastery with the
Mystery Setting or the expertise in the art of
piece of jewelry carries a message, has a story
to tell . . . It is jewelry with a soul". Ilias
Lalaounis, a fourth generation jeweler, has become
renowned for creating luxurious gold jewelry steeped
in history. Lalaounis creations represent a synthesis
of past and present, a unique interpretation of
ancient civilisation or culture translated into
a modern idiom. Influences as diverse as the Neolithic
age, Mycenaean art, the Byzantine era, pre-Columbian
architecture as well as science and nature, have
all inspired the Lalaounis collections.
Royal Jewellers S02 ep2 Buccellati, Bentley &
has been said of Gianmaria Buccellati that he
creates 'paintings' using gold, silver and precious
gemstones, such is the beauty of the pieces this
second generation master goldsmith fashions. From
the moment the concept for a piece enters his
mind to the moment it is realised, Gianmaria never
strays too far from the centre of creativity;
the workrooms that his father Mario had established
a generation before.
& SKINNER Mark
& Skinner, Jewellers by Royal Appointment
to both Her Majesty the Queen and His Royal Highness
the Prince of Wales, have between them been buying
and selling the loveliest jewellery for over 180
years Today Bentley & Skinner continues in
the tradition that has helped to make Bond Street
a synonym for all that is excellent in the civilised
Royal Jewellers S02 ep3 Roberto Coin, Ilias Lalaounis
handmade gold jewelry with diamonds and coloured
stones. Production of necklaces, bracelets, bangles,
rings, earrings, pendants, chains, etc. Solid,
semi-solid and hollow collections of high quality
and latest fashion trends.
year old tradition of Greek art is kept alive.
Age old techniques such as granulation, filigree
and hand hammering are used along side modern
techniques, to create jewelry inspired by ancient
Royal Jewellers S02 ep4 Anna-Maria Camilli, Wartski
MARIA CAMILLI - Riccardo
jewelry with an inimitable style. Art and fashion
are mixed in an original creative message. Annamaria
Cammilli is proposing different collections, where
gold alloy is always very original: many different
colours of gold, often mixed together. Diamonds
pavé and 18kt gold are often mixed with original
cut of precious and semiprecious stones and south
sea pearls. This brand is creating jewelry in
Firenze since 1982
is a family owned firm of art and antique dealers,
specialising in fine jewellery, gold boxes and
works by Fabergé. The firm was founded in North
Wales in 1865 by Morris Wartski, maternal great-grandfather
of the present day Chairman. The business thrived
under the patronage of King Edward VII and a colourful
clientele including the Marquis of Anglesey known
as the 'dancing Marquis' with his penchant for
emerald set ping-pong shirts, and the nocturnal
Mr Blair who questioned the spirits in his walled
garden before deciding on a purchase.
Royal Jewellers S02 ep5 Zolotas, Staurino,
a marriage of myth, culture and contemporary design,
Zolotas breath new life into the antiquities of
Greece displaying in their pieces an homogenous
blend of the ancient and the modern wrought from
the simplicity of gold and silver. In its own
way, a Zolotas creation can bridge the chasm between
the mortal and the immortal as images of Danae,
Aphrodite and Athena adorn the necks and wrists
of modern day muses.
Butterfly, reflects our choice to go back to a
past of all white and lightness of transparencies,
the guide-lines of all new Staurino high fashion
creations. Madame Butterfly alternates very light
volumes obtained by combining elements reminiscent
of the shapes of small fans, a typical Japanese
ornament: hence, the name inspired to the renowned
opera by Puccini. A wise use of diamond marquises
highlights and embellishes full and empty spaces
that give the jewel a feeling of total lightness,
almost as if it were a butterfly, hovering in
the air. Luxury has no limits. Just like seduction
Royal Jewellers S02 ep6 Picchiotti, Stephen Webster,
is worldwide renowned as a premier manufacturing
company of one-of-a-kind pieces. A special characteristic
of Picchiotti's distinctive designs is the signature
use of calibrated stones, such as squares and
baguettes. This is a highly demanding and expensive
aspect of jewelry design since the stones are
extremely difficult to work with, and nobody uses
them as extensively as Picchiotti.
WEBSTER - Stephen
Webster is regarded as the UK's most innovative
jewellery designer of our time. Having received
countless coveted industry awards as well as becoming
a firm favourite with celebrities across the globe,
from Madonna to Christina Aguilera, Charlize Theron,
Kate Moss, Sir Elton John, Ozzy Osbourne and Cameron
Diaz to name but a few. His bold, colourful designs
make their way to Basel for 2008 with the new
collections "Poison Ivy" and "Fly by Night" and
new additions to the Signature Thorn collection,
all encompassing the Stephen Webster hallmark
of edge, attitude and excellence.
Royal Jewellers S02 ep7 Luca Carati, Henry Dunay,
CARATI - Gianluca
Carati style represents the harmonic equilibrium
between the artisanal tradition of Valenza and
a new desire of innovation. Present and future,
classic and contemporary, white and coloured diamonds
meet synergistically and reach, in each Luca Carati
creation, the highest expression.
Dunay designs are crafted in 18 kt gold. Dunay
only uses top quality russian cut diamonds. His
precious and semi-precious stones are collected
by him personally by the top sources of the world.
Henry Dunay designs are exclusive and many are
one of a kind pieces.
Royal Jewellers S02 ep8
Carnet, Georg Jensen,
disciple of jeweller-genius JAR, who’s work
is already fetching record prices at Christies/Sothebys
auctions , HK-based Michelle Ong’s jewels
can take over 5-6 years to create for her exclusive
JENSEN - Ulrich
in Denmark in 1904, Georg Jensen's jewellery and
watches have always represented uncompromising
craftsmanship combined with timeless design. Its
pure, elegant design style is favoured by millions
around the world and it is often quoted as one
of Scandinavia's most recognised luxury brands.
Royal Jewellers S02 ep9 Lina Fanourakis, Pasquale
folds, hammers, nails and roughens precious metals,
yet at the same time caresses them. "In a jewelry
studio we learn to value and appreciate metals
and stones," Fanourakis says, "but while we work
on them, we treat them like any other kind of
material. Think of how gold turns black, and then
you hammer it. It is not a pretty sight, and it
loses its preciousness. It is when the piece is
finished that it regains its beauty and value."
unique shapes: bright, shining stars, flowers
and hearts. Pasquale Bruni plays with emotions,
forms enveloping structures and creates sensational
effects with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, topazes
and tourmalines. His collections display a distinctive
style, unconventional and harmonious: a delight
to look at, a pleasure to wear.
Royal Jewellers S02 ep10 Leo DeVroomen, Francois
de Vroomen is recognised today as one of the world’s
most prestigious designers of bespoke jewellery.
Born in Holland during the Second World War, Leo
was the youngest of eight siblings and the family
tulip growing business was long since spoken for.
From an early age he dreamed of a more artistic
life, a world away from farming. Following his
apprenticeship in The Hague and qualifying as
a Master Goldsmith in Switzerland he came to London
in 1965. Whilst lecturing in jewellery design
at the Central School of Art and Design (now Central
St. Martins) he met Ginnie, his future wife, design
partner and muse. This successful relationship
resulted in the formation of De Vroomen Design.
grandfather of the current directors, a modest
and extremely discreet man, Charles Mellerio belongs
to the long line of artists in the family. His
watercolours were exhibited many times at the
Salon des Artistes Français at the Grand Palais
and he received the Prix de Rome award for drawing
at the age of 20. Nonetheless, he had to renounce
the reward for this prize – a one-year stay at
the Villa Médicis – and the artistic career of
his dreams to take on his role in the family business.
There he learned the profession of jeweller and
was, in this respect, awarded the title of best
craftsman in France. He ultimately declared that
he was prouder of this award than the Prix de
Rome… Like his grandfather Jean-François and his
father Raphaël before him, he himself designed
the jewels that can still be admired in the Company’s
archives. Charles Mellerio was thus one of the
few jewellers to be both craftsman and company
director, dividing his time between “the peg”
and the accounts books. How better to manage a
company than by having an intimate knowledge of
all of its workings and mastering the profession
with heart, hand and soul?
Royal Jewellers S02 ep11 Patrick Mauboussin, Alberto
1827, Mr Rocher started the jewellery designs
behind Mauboussin. The universal exhibitions of
Vienna and then Paris contributed greatly to the
brand’s growing success. The great exhibition
of Decorative Arts gave recognition to Mauboussin’s
know-how. Throughout the 20th century, Mauboussin’s
jewellery design went hand in hand, and even sometimes
preceded, aesthetic trends and delighted jewellery
lovers such as Marlene Dietrich. Mauboussin has
long been known for its brilliant use of colorful
stones—in 1939 Charlie Chaplin bought his wife,
Paulette Goddard, a dazzling gold bracelet with
floral motifs in cabochon emeralds and diamonds
to console her for not getting the role of Scarlett
in Gone with the Wind—and the current collection
continues that tradition.
Sabbadini Jewellery Company has been a family
business for several generations. Following in
the footsteps of his father Bruno Sabbadini, a
widely-experienced stone dealer, company president,
Alberto Sabbadini, has been involved in the business
for 40 years. His wife Stefania and son Pierandrea
are always beside him to present the glamorous
Sabbadini Jewellery collections all over the world.
THE ROYAL JEWELLERS SERIES 1
Royal Jewellers S01 ep1 Laurence Graff, Patrick
Mauboussin & Henry Dunay.
Laurence Graff- A London "rock star" [Diamonds].
It has already been said that more important gem
quality diamonds have passed through his hands
than any other living dealer.
[Mike Tyson] was a very nice fellow and I took
a view when I let him walk out of the shop with
$1M of merchandise, he said he’d be paying. I
don’t think a man of such high profile wouldn’t
pay and on his second visit to London, he walked
into this showroom, came to this desk where we
are sitting and put his arm around me and kissed
me. I looked at him and said, "but Mike, you owe
me money!" "What, he never paid it, son of a gun,
white trash etc, etc." . It was scary. Nevertheless
in a few days it was paid up. It was good publicity.
- Patrick Mauboussin - Royal Jeweller & maker
ofanimatronic objets d'art, Mauboussin also adds
project managing agiant jewel in the form of the
Place Vendome residence ofthe Sultan of Brunei
to his collection.
discovered that from nothing, from a piece of
flat metal, with your hand and with a wish that
you have, you can hammer it perfectly or create
something and from nothing you create something
that has a proper life. .
YORK - Henry Dunay- Irrespressible multi-awared-winning
Jeweller/Goldsmith to the stars.
of the funniest things was making a chastity belt
for a woman. Her husband ordered it and she would
come in, in black leotards and we would adjust
it and measure it, and fit it and finally, the
hardest part was the lock and then I had to make
a diamond key!
Royal Jewellers S01 ep2 , Christies Jewellery
Dept, Victor Mayer & Illario
- Francois Curiel - Christies - The hand that
rocks the gavel in multi-million dollar jewellery
auctions. His promotion, or rather lack of promotion,
makes everyone want to buy a piece of jewellery
by JAR. I remember the first exhibition in 1977
in New York. You were given a flashlight and a
catalogue and you were asked to go into a room
which was semi dark because it was like a treasure
hunt. I don't know if you have been to his shop
at 7 place Vendome in Paris. It is a shop where
there is nothing in the window, not even a name.
There is a nasty little bell and none of this
business of here come and look at my marvellous
jewels - nothing. And if they don't know you and
you press the bell, they say ' what do you want?'
Well I would like to see some jewellery! Sorry
we are a small firm, we have nothing to show you,
there is nothing today. So they make it very,
very difficult for you to buy.
Marcus Mohr - Faberge - Master Craftsman of the
late Czar's favourite gift item-the imperial egg.
Faberge actually was not considered a goldsmith
himself. He was not making the things himself
and there are only a few sketches that he actually
drew himself. Different so-called work masters
who were working more or less independently under
his surveillance made the items. One was a specialist
in enameling, one was specialised in silver, the
other in jewellery.
Pietro-Luigi Illario, Mario Dessi - Valenca, ItalyJewellers
the "make" behind many Place Vendome jewellers.
Ten years ago I thought I would like to design
jewellery for passion. I knew the technical side
of the business, the style. As a designer, it
is important to use emotion. Emotion is being
able to see things, to observe people, to draw
the designs that are different. When I draw jewelery
designs I don't think about jewellery, I don't
look at the window of a jewellery shop for inspiration.
It is only to know what exists in the marketplace
so that it is not possible to draw something similar.
Royal Jewellers S01 ep3 Dior, Asprey & Adler
PARIS - Victoire de Castellane -Christian Dior Jewellery
-Already one ofParis' leading fashion houses,and
part ofBernardArnaud's LVMH, ex-Chanel jewellery-designer
Victoire de Castellanehas been charged with the
task ofcreating a jewellery "New Look".
My father’s godmother was Barbara Hutton from the
Woolworth’s family. Barbara Hutton gave to my
mother beautiful jewelry. When I was five years
old, I saw this jewelry and used a scizzors to
cut it . I took it to my mother, and I started
to change it, to transform it. When she finally
saw it because I left all the pieces on the floor,
she screamed "What happened to my jewelry?" I
replied very naturally, "I am doing something
LONDON- William Asprey - The new "Asprey" on MountStreet
under the auspices ofthe Asprey Family.
Because of my family history people know us they,
have something unqiue and special they will call
us and say, hey you know I've got something special
I would like you to see it. So we will go and
see it or they will bring it to us. O.k. we say
we have, 1, 2, 3 clients who we really think this
would just knock their socks off and they would
have to have it. When you are talking about very
special items you don't want them put in a shop
window. I have taken three trunks full of goods
to a client - you are asked to come and you go.
When they see you is when they have the time.
So yes you might have to wait for a week. Luckily
with the advent of mobile phones you can actually
wait slightly further away.
GENEVA- Carlos & Franklin Adler - Turkish born, Swiss
trained innovative jewellers.
My father was going crazy when he saw the way my
grandfather acted. Because my grandfather if he
didn't like a customer , he threw them out. It
was as simple as that. The first thing my father
did, the moment my grandfather died , was take
an axe and smash the shop to pieces.. he had such
strong feelings. He hired a good architect, who
was Swedish living in Turkey and made a total
modern concept of a shop .
Royal Jewellers S01 ep4 Lalique, Webster &
- Gerard Tavenas - Lalique - Handcrafted Glass
Lalique has designed about 400 different models
of scent bottles and today people are collecting
those antique scent bottles. There was auction
and one bottle was sold for 300,000 Euros!
Stephen Webster - Ex-Punk Jeweller to Madonna
& Guy Ritchie.
was a punk and I was completely punk and I was
probably one of the only ones in Hatton gardens
at the time. I used to get picked on for that
reason but I don't know if it was stubbornness
or what, I stuck to that and I also stuck to jewellery.
I went and worked for a designer, and it was then
that I actually realized that there is much more
to this industry.
Stefano Canturi - JEWELLER - Moulin Rouge Necklace
for Nicole Kidman & Belly-button for Britney Spears
Moulin Rouge, and working with Nicole Kidman came
about because of "word of mouth". Baz Luhrman
and Catherine approached me and we sat together
and he said to me, "I want professionals to walk
into my movie and sit down and not be able to
fault it. How do I do that?". I replied "The only
way to do that is to make it real".
Royal Jewellers S01 ep5 ST Dupont, Terzano &
- William Christie - ST Dupont - precision French
writing instrument and lighter manufacturer.
is a brand that started in 1872 mainly as a leather
goods manufacturer producing very, very high quality
leather goods for the most famous people in the
world. For example the gift from the French Republic
to Queen Elizabeth the II on her marriage was
a Dupont travelling case.
Roberta & Alessandro Terzano - JEWELLERS -Valenza's
is very difficult to work in a family business,
but at the same time, the force is together. We
have different tastes and often quarrel, crying
and shouting here in this office - but this is
normal for Italians because we are passionate.
YORK - Ward Ladragin- Fuoco Verdura - Jeweller
who used to design for Chanel
I first heard about Verdura in a sort of embarrassing
way. It was 1969 and I was doing an appraisal
in Dallas Texas for Lilly Ponds - she was a big
movie star in her day. She was French and she
was also an Opera Singer before she became a Movie
Star and she had a lot of Verdura jewellery. I
had never ever seen the name before and this jewellery
was quite amazing, it was sort of stars and comets.
I asked "Can you tell me more about it?" I was
24 and I was head of the jewellery department
at Sotherby's. She said "Young man, you don't
know who Fuoco Verdura is?" I said "No I don't"
She said "When you get back to New York you should
Royal Jewellers S01 ep6 Repossi, Scavia &
Robert Lee Morris.
- Alberto Repossi - A Monte-Carlo Jeweller in
can imagine 32 year ago it was a big adventure
to go to the Tribal zone of Bhurma or Pakistan.
To buy raw stones you must carry cash money so
you are not very sure that once you buy you would
actually reach home safely. So our philosophy
was always to buy four and to leave one behind
like a sample - take the sample for my next trip
so you have the sample for the colour we need.
This was insurance. It was therefore not necessary
to kill us and to take the money and the stones.
Fulvio-Maria Scavia- Sculptor ofArchitectural
jewelleryand winner of numerous DEBEERS diamond
was very arrogant at that time. I would say "I
show the world what I feel, and what I feel would
be the best".Now I wouldn’t say something like
that, at age 54, but at that time I was very strong
and engaging and proud. Proud in the sense that
I knew I wanted to work hard, to make the best
YORK - Rob Lee Morris - When Warhol was painting,Lee
Morris was sculpting. Creator ofthe concept of"Art
Jewellery" ,he also creates for Donna Karan.
had been discovered at a craft fair by a very
prominent gallery owner - Mrs. Joan Sonovan And
'Sculpture to Wear' was really the thing that
turned it all on for me. It was jewellery by very
famous artists, that most people don't even know
about - Picasso, Man Ray, Arp, Max Ernst, all
the great ones, Brach, Miro they all did some
kind of jewellery, and in that jewellery everything
about that artist came forward. So I said to myself
'Oh my God this who I am, this is what I want
to do and I am not famous for anything else yet,
but I want to use jewellery as my primary medium
Royal Jewellers S01 ep7 Lorenz Baumer, Jeremy
Morris & Lina Fanourakis
- Lorenz Baumer - Designer behing Chanel, Cartier,
Piaget, Swatch creations.
have to do two things at once. You have to be
very knowledgeable of all the process and at the
same time you have to forget about all of that,
because pretty often you'll design something and
the workshops they will always tell you, you can't
do it, because it is very complicated to do. They
don't want to take the chance of it not working
out because it will be there fault. So you have
to say I want it done this way and that is it,
so just find a solution.
Jeremy Morris - David Morris - London's modern"renaissance
man" ofJewellery combines classic worksmanship
with re-invigorated design.
was really good at it. I don’t know why I made
the choice. But what I do know is that once I
actually started to make it, I found it enormously
gratifying and actually 20 years later I think
some of the most gratifying experiences I had
was when I finished a piece of jewelry. It is
a very fulfilling feeling.
Lina Fanourakis - Perhaps it is the way Lina Fanourakis
is able to create "fabric texture" with gold,
or her passionwith combining fashion with antique
jewellery settings which sets her apart.
wanted to make big pieces, not very luxurious,
not very shiny – the opposite. Really wrinkled
and very, very sculptured but at the same time
very light so that they are easily wearable. Because
I always think that jewels have to be worn to
enjoy them. Then I thought maybe I should take
a sheet of really, really fine gold and burn it
and wrinkle it, so this could be the "sculpture
part" and then place another sheet underneath
as support, so it became as thick as I want it,
as big as I want it, and in between the two sheets
of gold it was air. .
Royal Jewellers S01 ep8 Judith Lieber, Richemont,
YORK - Victor Lipko - Judith Lieber - Glitzy-glamour
evening jewellery in the shape of a purse.
made beautiful products, and they lasted. She
would go on a public appearance and a woman would
come and say, Mrs. Leiber I bought this fifteen
years ago, see how great it is. And she would
says"It is time you bought another one!" Judith
started making handbags on her own in 1963.She
became a GI bride, came to the United States after
the war and worked for the most prestigious Handbag
Company at the time, which was Nettie Rosenstein.
In fact Judith made Mamie Eisenhower's inaugural
bag, with the Nettie Rosenstein label. Eventually
she got tired of working for other people and
in 1963 she hung out her own shingle.
- Michel Gouten - LANCEL - VP Cartier & CEO Lancel
chats about the latest Richemont acquisition.
potential today for a "small" luxury company is
larger because the large luxury conglomerates
have extended the taste of the people. If you
are a creator and you give to the people something
attractive and someting that they really love,
they will buy and you will be a success.
Piero Sabadini - Next generation of a Milanese
housewhich specialises in the biggest & most colorful
first time I had a fancy pink diamond in my hand
5 or 6 carat heart shape and it had a value of
maybe 200,000 $ per carat I was 23 years old.
I remember I called my father in Italy and I said
I had known that he had seen them before but I
was holding something that at the time was worth
one million dollars. When you put something like
that in your hand it gives you a push to study
and to go on and see what else there is.
Royal Jewellers S01 ep9 Gaspari, Christofle &
Odile & Maria Gaspari - "Haute Jeweller" located
in a Medieval Castle in Valenza - the heart of
Italian Fine Jewellery.
was always in love with the jewelry, since I was
a baby. When I was a baby my mother used to put
me in the office behind us, with a bag and I used
to sleep there. When I was 7 years old I went
to Moussaieff in London and Schlomo had two sapphires
in his hand and asked me which sapphire was from
Kashmir. I looked at them and said this one is
Kashmir. He told my mother, "I can’t believe it,
how can she say that this is Kashmir?", because
I was only 7 years old.
- Albert Bouilhet - Christofle - Dynasty of silversmiths
1830 two brothers in laws one was called Charles
Christofle and the other was Joseph Bouilhet were
partners in jewellery store in Paris. Ten years
later in 1840 they met a rather very strange type
of character that you would find in the middle
of the 19th century this man was called Henri
De Ruolz - He was a chemist, a play writer, an
opera composer and most likely a crook on top
of all that. He sold to my ancestors the patent
of Electroplating, which he pretended that he
had invented, and in reality, he had worked on
the work of two brilliant British silversmiths
Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele - Chopard - Hands-on
family jewellery dynasty known for their 'Happy
I went to an exhibition and it was one of the
very first that my father sent me to, in the Philippines[at
the time of Imelda Marcos]. They needed a family
member and I was just 17 and I was just sort of
helping out. My father told them, 'the Vice President
will be coming' and as I walked out of the plane
with jeans and t-shirt they asked "Where is the
Vice President?' and then our representative said,
'She is here'. Then they said, 'Oh my God she
is a kid!'.
Royal Jewellers S01 ep10 Bulgari, Swarovski &
ROME- Francesco Trapani - Bulgari family member Trapani
heads Italy's leading jewellery house.
My relationship with P & G [Procter & Gamble] started
before Gianlucca [Brozetti- now CEO of ASPREY]
in the sense I was a very good friend of a certain
number of their people. One of them is Tony Belloni,
who became COO of LVMH . This was at the beginning
of the 80’s and I started going out with Tony
and some others and a little later I learnt that
the world of management was something I didn’t
know at all and they started teaching me a certain
number of things. .
PARIS - Rosemarie Le Gallais- D. Swarovski - Cut-glass
Fashion Jewellery Accessories.
I have a very funny approach, you know, I never think
about something being impossible. We are working
with wonderful artisans, most of them in Paris
for the moment. Sometimes when I give them the
idea in the beginning they say 'Its impossible".
When someone says it is impossible I become move
convinced that I have to try. This "innocence"
gives sometimes a really wonderful result. I put
things in total contrast, with unexpected materials.
I would put crystals with wood, or crystal with
fur, and that made it modern and interesting and
then you find ways of using it.
NEW YORK - Barry Kieselstein Cord - Jeweller/Artist
whose work is exhibited in the Louvre
A few weeks ago, I had some people in here and they
said "Oh you like old cars?" and I said "Yes I
have a car racing team, we travel all around the
country racing cars" They said "Excuse me...Wait
a minute I thought you were a jewellery designer?"
And I replied "Well, yes, I do that too". My dream
when I was young, besides getting into these great
museums, and making an indelable American brand,
was very much to have an atelier very much like
one of the Sun Kings.
Jewellers S01 ep11 - Robert Mouawad, Manolo Carrera
Robert Mouawad - The only jeweller to receive
the GIA's Lifetime Achievement Award, Robert Mouawad
takes us on a tour ofhis workshops in 3 continents
aboard his business jet, and leisurely cruise
through the Greek Islands on his 210 ft "Cedar
Sea". You know stones are my heart, they are my
life, my passion. I breathe through stones. I
used to buy big rough and cut them, to get the
biggest stones ever, and the best quality. I was
the one to own for instance, the Jubilee. I owned
the Premier Rose and from that time I cut three
stones over 100 carats and they do carry my name.
Whoever today wants a big stone, does not have
many addresses to visit, I am one of them.
Maria Eugenia Giron - ex-Loewe, now Carrera's
CEO MADRID- Manuel Carrera - Carrera y Carrera
It is an artistic job, artistic work that creates
a piece of vanity, in a world of vanity . It is
not just something to put on a mantle piece. It
is something spiritual and something cultural.
It is the only thing along with architecture and
art that represents history. You can see the history
of a nation through its jewellery. The biggest
desire that the musician Rostropovich has, is
to come to Madrid and have a glass of wine and
a little bit of Tapas with me in the centre of
Madrid. We are the best of friends, twin souls
and talk for hours even though I don't understand
nor speak French and he doesn't speak Spanish.
Royal Jewellers S01 ep12 Lalaounis, DeVroomen
Ilias Lalaounis - "Grecian Gold" inspired by history
and prehistory. The big imagination that I have,
if I was for example sculpting in marble - one
piece every two or three years I would never have
been able to realize more than 60,000 designs
that I have created.
Leo Devroomen - Dutch goldsmith based in London
David Thomas was the golden boy of the Goldsmiths
Hall. I was very lucky to meet him. He had just
left the Royal College, and he had no money and
he employed one very young apprentice craftsman
and I went to see him on a Saturday morning on
my day off. His mum told me where he was, it was
pure accident. David said sit down and see if
you can make these rings. My break came because
David could not really afford me and he thought
"I'll get him a teaching job at the Colledge here
in London at the Central School of Art and Design".
It had only just been set up and they were looking
for tutors. He was teaching there himself and
they needed someone to show the practical side
and that was the best type of education that anybody
could ever have.
YORK - Sami Habijay - Piranesi Jewellers 20 to
30 years ago there was a room for a lot of people
to make money, the guys buying the rough from
the mine, selling it in Bangkok, dealers going
to Bangkok buying the stones and bringing them
in and selling to the other dealers, these people
selling to the manufacturer, the manufacturer
selling it to the retail store. A piece that came
from the mines at $1,000.00 per carat, by the
time it would reach the customer it would be $5,000.00.
Now there is no middle man, he has gone. Now you
are talking to manufacturers and they are buying
direct from the source, trying to go to the retail
stores and direct to the private customer.
Royal Jewellers S01 ep13 - FRED, McCabe McCarty
& CHOPARD LUC
- Dominique Watine Arnault & Yan Sicard - FRED
-Sister of LVMH's Bernard Arnault and French jewellery
designer Sicard, take over from where Henri Samuels
left off. When I arrived at Fred, Mr. Fred asked
me "I have a big client who would like to buy
rare blue stones. I can't find a blue stone".
I replied "I'll have to think about it and perhaps
it's possible for me. I have a good friend, and
my friend has a 26 carats flawless blue diamond".
When I met Mr. Fred I said "I think I have found
the stone for your client" and he sold it.
David McCarty- McCabe-McCarty - London's quintessential
objet d'art makers [ex-Cartier]. When i first
joined the company which was 1959, Cartier were
all owned by the Cartier family. Jack Cartier
owned the London business and his cousins had
the other two, and he was the last one to sell.
He used to give me my bonus every christmas. He
was lovely, great guy, Ialways thought that he
was a little bit nervous and shy in some ways
about us. We were in awe of him. It was sort of
tweedle dum and tweedle dee really.
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele - CHOPARD LUC People
like to know who is behind the product. They like
to see there is a continuation, there is tradition,
it is a family company involved. It is not just
another name that has been bought by another name.
Royal Jewellers S01 ep14- Damiani, Bielka &
Silvia Damiani - Damiani is the fifth biggest
jewellery company in the world.- still family
was 1994 and I was travelling with my father.
We were in China and I remember it was a very
surreal situation. We were on the border taking
a train going from one country to the other it
was like duty free place at a station and a big
poster of Isabella Rossellini there looking at
me, and she was so beautiful (and in the place
was not beautiful at all). She represented beauty
for me. We were in the middle of nowhere. I was
tired, it was raining and I started to think 'that
woman has so many things together in herself.
She is Italian but she is international. She is
really in my point of view an Icon of a certain
type of intellectual beauty.
YORK - Robert Bielka - The designer ofthe "ASPREY
1973 my wife and I realised that to really get
into fine jewellery New York was the place to
be. and I got a job at Cartier. I have a book
which shows the Cartier workshop from 1920, 1925
and it looked exactly the same, it hadn't changed
in fifty years. I got lucky enough to sit right
across from the two best jewellers in the shop,
and so I was constantly watching. One guy called
me the giraffe because I was always looking over.
- Francois Mellerio - 14 generations of Jewellers.
is a very old family firm and was created in 1613
and I am the 14th generation. We have always been
in the jewellery business - high jewellery, and
also clock, watches and silver. We are definitely
the oldest jeweller in France and maybe even in
Royal Jewellers ep15 Van Cleef & Arpels, Hafner
- Isabelle Guichot - Van Cleef& Arpels. After
14 yearsat Cartier ,the rising Star of Vendome
tackles the arch-rival VanCleef & Arpels
family run business, is a wonderful story because
it gives a lot of archives, stories to tell and
basically it gives the name and the patronage.
On the other side the problem is that most of
the time in those families you get different branches
with different goals in life, different ways,
different stories and over time it freezes totally
the growth of the company .
Stefan Hafner - Jeweller to the Stars.
know I've had Royal Highnesses in front of me
or me in front of her, now I get confused if she
is in front of me or I am in front of her because
there is a moment you are there, you are shy,
you are a bit nervous , when she looks at it and
she loves it. This is the moment you feel equal
to anybody in this world. It is such a gratifying
feeling. You need this like you need food! But
it has one draw back. It is not a money making
proposition really. A friend of mind told me "Stefan
you are too much in love with this business you
will never make money". But I am happy if I make
enough to give life to these designs you see.
- Pascal Courteault - Leroy Watches - French HauteHorology
- makers ofperfectionist watches - the watch ofKings
big problem is in the watch making business is
that most of the watches come on the market as
a two handed watch and then people try to put
things on top of it, a calendar, a perpetual calendar,
moon face or a power indicator. These movements
are not designed for that.
Royal Jewellers S01 ep16 La Nouvelle Bague, Boucheron,
FLORENCE- Leopoldo Poli - La Nouvelle Bague - An
actual"Renaissance Man" living in the real renaissance
city of Florence,Tuscan jeweller LNB is leading
the new renaissance of Italian wearable art.
My passion, my love is for art. I was a very, very
bad student but I liked to learn. I wanted to
know why beauty is beauty? Why beauty gives, as
it is still giving me now, such emotion.
PARIS - Jean-Claude Le Rouzic- Boucheron - One ofParis'
oldestJewellery houses located on Place Vendome.
I thought that the translation of the jewellery world
into a perfume was insufficient. So when we started
to work for Boucheron the concept was to go as
far as we can to make the perfume be like a jewel.
NEW YORK - Helene Fortunoff- JEWELLER -5th Ave Jewellery
I like to get to the source. I mean we call ourselves
Fortunoff the Source, and I would not be happy
if I were not going and being able to purchase
at where I knew I was getting the right price
and where I could have an active negotiation.
Part of the pleasure of the jewellery business,
I would say is outright negotiation and understanding
the nuances of the deal There is a huge amount
of merchandise and you have rejection and you
are able to tailor your parcels and when you are
looking at million and millions of dollars of
merchandise, it takes time, but you will get what
Royal Jewellers S01 ep17 Franck Muller, Moussaieff
Franck Muller - Grand Master ofComplications -genius
watchmaker to the Stars.
am able to imagine the individual parts and watch
assembly in my mind - like a computer, without
having to draw it or put it down on paper. I know
the exact direction to take and what I have to
do and I can design with my mind. This talent
is extremely useful for antique watch restoration
because when you see a movement, many of the parts
are lost . You have to reinvent the missing parts,
the mechanism and have parts made to the same
specification as the original. You must match
style, art and technology.
Alisa Moussaieff- Royal Jewellers and dealers
inmulti-million dollar jewels in the world.
Eastern buyers are highly sophisticated shoppers,
they don't want last years fashion, they want
next years fashion. You've got to build a piece
of jewellery keeping in mind that you may have
to change it for them in a couple of years time,
if they are fed up with the style.
Edmund Avakian - Royal Jewellers.
do you do if somebody comes at 5 o'clock on Saturday
afternoon for example, and wants to buy an important
piece and pulls out the cheque book- he wants
to pay you. He might be the most famous guy on
the NASDAC or the most famous crook. So you have
to use a lot of judgement.
Royal Jewellers S01 ep18 FP Journe, David Webb
& Asprey's Brozetti
Francois- Paul Journe - Master Watchmaker and
protege of English watchmaker George Daniels.
first year I presented my collection in Basel,
there was just two watches in my collection. In
a few days, I met all the important distributors
from the whole world. My head was spinning! At
17 when I was working in my uncle’s workshop on
antique watches, I was working on watches from
the 16th Century, 17th, and 18th Century.All the
richness of the watchmakers art of this time was
extraordinary, because watchmaking was an avantgarde
science and there was an array of incredibly creative
people involved at the time. And I was being introduce
to the biggest collectors.
YORK - Stan Silverstein - David Webb - US Jewelleryinstitution
- creator ofbig - bold jewellery pieces.
designs were bold, and it was never understated.
It was never subtle it was designed to make a
statement. It wasn't your traditional, take a
stone, put 4 prongs around it and put it in a
ring. It was really more wearable art. Every piece
had something to say. We were never accused of
being stone dealers we were jewellers. I always
like to say that the price was greater than the
some of the parts, because we always had so much
other stuff in each piece, whether it was labour,
attention to detail and it was just the way it
was put together. It wasn't just pieces of stones
- Gianluca Brozetti - Ex-Bulgari, now Louis Vuitton[although
he recently moved to Asprey in London]
When we were in McKenzie, the Gucci family was run
by Maurizio with his cousins. They wanted to make
the transition from family to management so they
came to McKenzie and they got a General manager
and a team of people from McKenzie's. It failed.
Luxury goods have a spirit, have a soul. They
are not just numbers, they are not just logistics
they are not just mechanisms, there is something
intangible that we sell to our clients that goes
beyond the product. So on one side understanding
the philosophy of the family which has been creating
a successful story, I think it is a key ingredient
to continue the successful story later on when
you bring in more management, more systems, more
professionalism - you should never forget that
the success of that product started from a family
where there was something intangible.
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